Clothing Alterations and Repairs: Maintaining a Sustainable Wardrobe: Chelsey Byrd Lewallen: Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Clothing Alterations and Repairs

Maintaining a Sustainable Wardrobe

Clothing Alterations and Repairs

Maintaining a Sustainable Wardrobe

Description

A detailed, step-by-step guide to successfully altering and repairing ready-made apparel that will help you achieve the perfect fit and extend the life of your clothing.

Whether you are interested in tailoring your wardrobe, starting a business, or learning a skill that will save you money and the planet, you'll find what you need through illustrated step-by-step projects and no-nonsense videos. You'll learn to make alterations to your ready-made clothing, including a variety of hemming techniques and taking in/ letting out seams, and repair methods to fix zippers, tears, and holes. There are also detailed guidelines on more complex techniques, including adjusting suit jacket sleeves, reshaping necklines and even fixing backpacks, tents and bags.

Preface
Introduction

1. How to Use this Book and Tools of the Trade
How to Use this Book
Tools of the Trade
Types of Pins
Types of Rulers
Marking Tools
Needles
Thread
Machines
Pressing/ Ironing
Hardware and Tools

2. Working with Alterations, Repairs and Clients
Before you get started
The Bare Necessities Sewing Space
The Deluxe Sewing Space
Step Two: The Logistics of Clothing Alterations and Repairs
Finding the Problem
Step Three: Working with clients
Identifying fabric
Fiber Content
Structure: Wovens, Knits, and Nonwovens

3. Bottom Hems
Shortening
Measuring Pants, Shorts, Skirts and Dresses for Hemming
Serge and Blind Hem Three Methods:
Blind Hemming Machine, Home Machine Blind Hem, or Hand Stitch
Twice Turn Hem
Cadet Cut Hem
Knitwear Coverstitch Hem
Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle
Twice-Turned Hem On Eveningwear and Formalwear
Napkin Roll Hem
Hand Stitch Hems: Cross Stitch, Vertical Hem Stitch, Prick/ Pick Stitch
Cross Stitch
Vertical Hem Stitch
Prick/ Pick Stitch
Lengthening Bottom Hems:
Maxing Out
Adding Fabric
Bias Tape
Adding Fabric
Adding Lace

4. Top Hems
Knitwear Coverstitch
Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle
Shirttail Hem
Lined Suit Jacket Hem
Unlined Suit Jacket Hems
Maxing Out Seam Allowance
Lengthening Suit Jacket Hems

5. Taking in Bottoms
Back Gap
Waistbands: Using Elastic
Side Seams/ Outseams & Inseam Tips
Sample Measurement Table
Inseams
Darts/Pleats/ Tucks
Ease/ Gathers
Taking in a Skirt or Pant with a Side Zipper
Side Seams
Inseams
Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets
Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance
Waistbands: Using Elastic
Waistbands: Using Gussets/ Farbic Panels

6. Letting Out Bottoms
Side Seams
Inseams
Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets
Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance

7. Jeans
Taking in the Center Back/ Back Gap: Jeans
Jeans Hem with Option to Distress
Original Jean Hem
Taking in the Outseams/ Inseams

8. Taking in Tops
Side Seams
Princess Seams/ Darts on Front Top
Pleats/ Tucks
Boned Bodices in Formalwear

9. Letting Out Tops
Side Seams
Panels
Boned Bodices in Formalwear

10. Sleeves, Shoulders and Armscyes
When to Say “No!”
Taking up Shoulders
Taking in Sleeves or Sleeves and Side Seams
Lined Suit Jacket Sleeve Hems
Button Down Shirt Cuffs and Plackets

11. Crotch Seams
How to Measure Crotch Seams
Taking in Crotch Seams
Letting out Crotch Seams
Adding Gussets

12. Necklines and Collars
Collar/ Neckline Types
Reshaping Necklines
Collar Adjustments

13. Repairs
Buttons
How to Sew on a Button that has Fallen off or is Loose on a Garment two and Four-Hole Button
Shank Button
Decorative Patches/ Visible Mending
Iron-On Patches
Stitch Witchery/ Fusible Bonding Patches
About Darning
Machine Darning
Hand Darning Zippers
Anatomy of a Zipper
Types of Zippers
When to Replace a Zipper
When to Fix a Zipper/ Replace a Zipper Head
Replacing a Zipper Head on Non-Separating/Closed/ Closed at Both Ends/ Continuous Zippers
Replacing a Zipper Head on for Separating Zippers
When to Replace a Zipper Head
When to Say No
Linings
Replacing or Rethreading Drawstrings
Hook and Loop Tape

Resources
Glossary
Acknowledgements
Index

Product details

Published	Mar 21 2024
Format	Hardback
Edition	1st
Extent	248
ISBN	9781350163591
Imprint	Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Illustrations	600 color illus
Dimensions	11 x 8 inches
Publisher	Bloomsbury Publishing

Chelsey's passion for teaching comes through vividly in this book. Her knowledge of various alteration techniques will aid anyone learning to sew or complete clothing alterations. There is a growing trend to reduce textile waste by altering or repairing the clothing that would otherwise end up in a landfill. If you would like to contribute to that trend then this book is step one for you.

Sara Holden, Owner, Altered Ego, LLC, USA.
A long-awaited and very welcome addition to my shelf. Chelsey Byrd Lewallen does a masterful job of providing the depth and the detail of repairs, without making assumptions of the reader's skill level or ability, making this an incredibly accessible text for all levels.

Sarah Mosher, Assistant Professor of Costume Design and Technology in Theatre Arts, Baylor University, USA